Beauty and Makeup

Look fabulous with these Beauty and Makeup Tips for crossdressers – you’ve never been so feminine!

How to choose a wig to reflect who you are

Dear reader, I’m pleased to introduce Liz, the newest author on Crossdresser Heaven. Liz Hall is the owner of Gorgeous Hair Wigs – an online wig store that caters specifically to crossdressers. You’ll also find a special discount below, just for readers of Crossdresser Heaven.

Some Sage Wig Advice for the Confused Crossdresser..

Ok, so ladies, when you are dressed in your female persona and you have given yourself a name to represent that persona – you then want to find the right hair to reflect that woman don’t you? So where do you start?

The first thing you need to think about is color – what color do you feel your personality needs?  Blondes are definitely for the more fun personality (long, layered or wavy bright blonde wigs) but they can also be elegant (soft blonde bob wig) depending on the shade of blonde.  Chocolates and browns can be mysterious (layered or wavy brown wigs) or even demure (shorter style brown wigs).  On the other hand auburns and reds can be fiery (long or layered red wigs) or intriguing (short & fun red wigs like a deep red bob).  Finally for the very dramatic woman a black wig could work – exotic (long black wigs) or very serious & smart (short sleek black bob wig).  So try to figure out “who you are” when you are:  Amanda, Adrianna, Sofia, Lynda, Sarah, etc.  and what color reflects your personality.  No matter what color you choose you want to feel “like you” when you put on your hair.

The second aspect you need to look at is style – this will depend on face shape of course.  But some wigs can create a slightly different face shape with their style.  We would recommend a wider fuller or rounder face shape should lean more towards the shoulder length long and slightly wavy or layered styles – very flattering.  The slimmer longer face works very well with long straight hair or a sleek bob style.  The fun short layered flicked out wigs are great for almost any face shape and can give that heart shaped face once on – we offer that style in almost every color.

At Gorgeous Hair we hope you will find exactly what you are looking for –we offer a wide range of wigs in a variety of colors and styles to suit every personality.  We offer quality synthetic wigs that look and feel like human hair.  They are made from high quality Kanekalon fibres and are created to a specific style.  You can not use heated styling tools on synthetic wigs but when you wash them (in warm water with gentle shampoo) they will retain their style when they dry (let them dry naturally and use a soft brush to bring back the style).  Synthetic wigs can be trimmed to be made slightly shorter or have more layered added – however, it is advisable to take your wig to a professional stylist to do this.  As long synthetic wigs are cared for properly they will last a long time.

We offer our wigs at very affordable prices as we deal directly with our manufacturer so there is no middle man, hence prices are lower than some other retail or online stores.

In the New Year we will be offering a small range of human hair wigs in a variety of styles and colors. They will be considerably more expensive of course but beautiful nonetheless.   However, do consider that by purchasing a synthetic wig, at a lower price, you can then potentially afford to purchase more than 1 wig so you can change things up sometimes and be a different style or color depending on your mood!

SPECIAL OFFER TO CROSSDRESSER HEAVEN READERS – If you purchase a wig from Gorgeous Hair between Nov 15 – Dec 15 you can get 15% off your purchase!  Just use the CODE:  CROSS01 when checking out to receive your discount.

We look forward to serving you very soon.    Love Liz x

www.gorgeoushairwigs.com

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Cool or Warm Skin Tone

You ladies are in for a treat today! After a few months of cajoling my beautiful wife agreed to write an article for Crossdresser Heaven. Not only does she bring all the insights of gained growing up as a girl, she has an uncanny knack for choosing great colors! Perfect for today’s topic.

She’s chosen to write under a pseudonym, as you’ll see. I know she’d love to hear from you about her article. Perhaps if we get enough comments I can convince her to write another article :) So please take a moment to comment after reading the article – and be beautiful!

Crossdresser Skin Tone

Have you ever seen someone wearing an amazing color blouse that made them look fantastic? This then led you to promptly go and buy something similar and the result was less than desirable. The problem could be your skin tone.

Skin tone is broadly classified into cool and warm tones. To determine what skin tone you are try these following tests:

The Vein Test

This is the most widely used test. Look at the underside of your arm in natural light. If your veins appear bluish you are cool toned, if they appear greenish you are warm toned. If you have a mixture of blue and green veins you are probably neutral. Consider yourself lucky.

The Gold/Silver Test

Stand in front of a mirror in natural light. Hold up a piece of silver and gold jewelry or fabric to your face one at a time and examine. If the silver makes your face light up, you are most likely cool toned. If the gold makes you look fresh and alive, you are probably warm toned.

While the above tests can act as guidelines, genetics are also important. Your skin, hair and eye color can assist you in determining whether you are warm or cool toned. It should be noted that there may be exceptions to this rule.

Warms tend to have a golden or apricot undertone. Their hair tends to have hints of orange, yellow, red or gold. Eye color tends to be amber, dark brown, hazel, or green.

Cool skin often has a pink or rosy undertone. Their hair often contains blue, blue-violet, silver, drab, and ash undertones. Eye color tends to be light blue, gray-green, blue green, turquoise, gray-blue, black or cool brown.

I am an exception to the genetic rule. My natural hair color is drab brown and I have green eyes with flecks of hazel. Yet my skin tone is definitely cool.

Why is this Important?

A Crossdressers Color Pallette

A Crossdresser's Color Pallette

Choosing the correct color based on your skin tone is an important part of looking your best. This applies to cosmetics, clothes and even hair color [if shopping for wigs or having highlights or tinting done]. Wearing the wrong hue can take your skin from looking radiant and glowing to appearing tired, drained and even unhealthy.

Warm tones

These will look their best in earthy hues either muted or crisp: Think yellows, oranges, bronzes, gold, peaches, brick reds, earthy greens, mocha browns and ivory. Yellow based colors makes your complexion sparkle. You also look better in ivory than pure white and black worn close to the face can make you appear washed out.

Makeup and hair color: Foundation is yellow based. Hair colors that have a warm overtone will look more natural on you. To complement your skin go for golden to dark browns, rich warm auburns as well as red and golden highlights. Avoid the following hair colors; ash, blues, purples and whites.

Cool tones

Both sexes will look stunning in rich jewel tones such as vibrant emerald green, royal or icy blues, rosy pinks, silvers, plums, magentas, blue-based reds and pure white. Blue based colors look best. You look better in pure white than ivory and you can easily wear black.

Makeup and hair color: Foundation is pink based. These people can wear shades of ash browns, cool blondes such as platinum, blue-blacks and unnatural colors like mahogany, burgundy and fire engine red can also be worn by this shade as well. Avoid tinting your hair in any of the following colors: orange, some reds, bronze, yellow or gold.

Neutral tones look amazing in any color though often they tend to pull towards cool or warm due to personal preferences.

Color Seasons – Winter, Spring, Summer and Autumn - are used to break down cool and warm colors further.  Summer and Winter are “cool” seasons; Spring and Autumn are “warm” seasons.

Now it’s time to play and compare different colors and tones against your skin. Some will look terrible, others okay and some will make you look as if you have just stepped out a fashion magazine. It is okay to wear some colors that don’t look 100% on you [since who of us can afford to totally revamp our closet?] Just keep these for bottoms and wear a top that complements your skin color.

Go and have some fun now that there is a change of seasons and fashions.

Xena

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Hair is the Hardest for Crossdressers to Get Right

Cross-dresser hair tips

Cross-dresser hair tips

Did you look like a cyclone warning the first time you tried to do your hair? Of all the mysterious things about womanhood, the secret to a good hair style is perhaps the most elusive for crossdressers. Many of us enjoy long hair just once a month, and often without the nurturing guidance young girls get while growing up.

If you wash your hair twice a week you’re already above average for a guy. Never mind conditioners, blow drying, styling gels, mousse and a bag full of other hair essentials. So where does the confused crossdresser get started?

Find Your Crossdressing Hair Style

The first thing to decide is whether you’ll be wearing a wig or styling your own hair. For some, genes have already made the choice for them. Some things to consider:

Advantages of wearing a wig while crossdressing

If you opt for a wig you’ll find three wonderful things. Firstly, your hair can be as long as you want right away without waiting months and years for it to grow. Wigs are also better for those who crossdress part time, and need to be fully male the rest of the time (dress codes at work, for example).  The final advantage to wearing a wig is variation – you can have a blonde bob one day, and long brunette curls the next day.

Advantages of crossdressing with your own hair

For the last few months I’ve been growing out my hair – I’m recovering from my wig phase :) . Going natural has it’s own advantages. Firstly, there’s no need to worry about your hair flying off. Getting your hair styled in a salon is tremendous fun – my trips to the salon count among my favorite few hours in the month. If you’re sensitive to the heat your own hair is much cooler than wearing a wig.

For this post I’ll provide a few crossdresser hair tips for those going natural. Look here for more information about how to wear a wig.

Crossdresser Hair Tips

Wash your hair a few times a week with a high quality shampoo. Many of the grocery store brands will leave your hair oily, or strip off too much oil. Personally, I use Nioxin, which you can find at Costco, in your favorite salon or online. Try not to wash too often, otherwise you’ll deprive your hair of natural oils.

Condition your hair every time you shampoo. 2 in 1 hair products are faster to use, but less gentle on your hair. Again use a high quality salon brand like Nioxin, their conditioner is the best I’ve ever used. It has a light mint scent and causes your scalp to tingle all over while conditioning. It’s also okay to use conditioner when you haven’t washed your hair.

Condition the ends of your hair. Don’t pour all the conditioner on your scalp, that will leave your hair heavy and give you the ‘drowned rat’ look. Definitely not sexy! Use most of the conditioner on the ends of your hair, which is most susceptible to split ends and drying out.

Don’t brush your hair when it’s wet. That tugging sensation you feel as you try to brush out your knots is hair being removed from your head. Pulling out your hair is not a good look.

We’ll leave the styling tips for a future post. If you have a crossdresser hair care tip you’d like to share, please leave a comment below and let the other ladies know what has worked for you.

Hugs,
Vanessa

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Flaws? What Flaws?

Concealer and foundation cover discoloration, even out skin tones, and smooth skin’s surface. There is a multitude of formulas and colors to choose from, which can get very confusing.

Concealers come in creams, sticks, or liquids. Regardless of formula, the key is to find a shade with the same undertone as your skin. The days of white raccoon eyes have gone out with the 80’s.

I find cream concealers easier to work with. With your middle or ring finger (never your index finger), very lightly smooth a small amount under the eyes or over discoloration. Dab on blemishes. The warmth of your finger will soften the cream and help it go on easily. Don’t worry about blending just yet because you’ll do that as you work foundation over your skin.

Some cosmetic companies offer a green tint to neutralize ruddiness or purple to minimize a sallow complexion. They do help, but don’t go overboard. A little goes a long way.

The multitude of foundation colors and formulas can seem overwhelming. I’ll keep it simple. If you have oily skin, look for a liquid in an oil-free formula. If you’re dry, a cream might be more to your liking. Normal or combination skin can go with a liquid formula for normal skin. Unless you work in the theatre, stay away from “pancake” makeup or too heavy an application. Instead of covering flaws, it just makes people want to take a trowel to your face.

Foundations are also affected by weather. During hot, humid summers you may prefer a sheer liquid, preferably with sunscreen. In dry, cold months, when your skin gets tight, a cream can feel better. Remember to also adjust your moisturizer.

The hardest part about foundation is finding the right shade. The idea is not to change your skin tone, but to work with it. Find three shades that look similar to your skin color. Dip a Q tip into the first color. Draw a strip vertically near the jaw line. With fresh Q tips, do the same with the other two shades. The strip that disappears is the color that best matches your skin. If none of them disappear, try three more. *This is important; once you’ve stripped your face, walk outdoors with a mirror to see which one matches the best. Florescent lights change the look of foundation.

Hint: if you wear Porcelain or Ivory, you probably look like a geisha. Most of us, with the exception of Nicole Kidman, have more color in our skin, especially in sunnier regions of the country.

Most formulas dry quickly, so instead of dabbing foundation around the entire face and then spreading it around, work one area of the face at a time. Don’t rub it in. Use the middle or ring finger to smooth it over the skin, like spreading icing. Makeup sponges work well. Wet the sponge first so that it does not soak up and waste too much foundation. Foundation brushes are nice for blending along the hairline and under eyes, but can take too much time with overall application.

Take foundation to just under the jaw line. If you did a good job matching color, you won’t need to take it down the neck. Foundation on the neck just makes a mess on your clothes. My neck tans, but my face only freckles. I pick a foundation closer to my neck color, thereby avoiding that mask look. This is why it is best to test your foundation close to the jaw line.

Set foundation with a translucent, loose powder. If you are a lady of color, you’ll need powder with some pigment. Most loose powders only come in fair, medium and dark. Blend two colors to get the right shade.

Use a velour powder pad to press loose powder into foundation. Then dust excess with a large brush. This method wastes less powder. Wash pads with soap and water, and air dried.

Some foundations come in cream/powder compacts. There is no need to set with loose powder. Carry one for touch ups. If you use the sponge applicator, be sure to wash it regularly. Same with your pads in pressed powder compacts.

Newest on the market are mineral foundations. They are highly pigmented powders, applied with a special brush. They can take a little practice. The key is to moisturize well before applying, otherwise it will look splotchy. Mineral foundations feel light on the skin, but give good coverage.

Hope this helps. Next time, I’ll cover eyes.

Christina Evans
Makeup101byevans@yahoo.com
www.linkedin.com/in/makeup101byevans

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Tools of the Trade

Every job has its tools. Things can get complicated in a kitchen without the right pots and pans. The same is true for applying makeup. Cosmetic companies love to give away brush sets as free gifts and stores are filled with brush sets in every shape and size, “Just in time for Christmas.” And like much of what we buy at the cosmetics counter, they end up in a drawer, never to come out of their pretty packaging, usually because we have no idea what to do with them. What I found to be the problem with most brush sets, it that, even if they are good quality, many of the brushes serve no useful purpose. Below, I’ve listed the four brushes and other tools you absolutely need and a few others that are nice to have.

Foundation

crossdressing makeup tipsMakeup application begins with concealer, foundation, and powder. Unless you are using a mineral powder foundation, the concealer and foundation can be applied with your finger-not your hand. Use the middle or ring finger to gently smooth on concealer or foundation. The index finger pulls too much on the skin.

Sponge applicators are okay, but they tend to absorb more foundation than you need. Dampen the sponge first to eliminate that problem. Sponges also breed bacteria, so either use a new sponge with each application, or wash it with soap and water after each use.

Foundation brushes are nice for smoothing out foundation and concealer around the eyes. For the full face, they can be time consuming. Foundation brushes are flat with a curved top and wedged bristles.

Powder

For applying powder, big, fluffy brushes are fun, but they can waste product. I recommend a cosmetic foam pad. Press pad lightly into powder, tap off excess, and then press powder onto face. I usually start under the eyes to keep concealer from creasing, and then work my way around the face until powder disappears. Use that big, fluffy brush to dust away any excess. The pads are large enough to use a different half and/or side with each application. Once both sides have been used, wash with soap and water. They last for ages, but it doesn’t hurt to toss them out after six months.

Blush

Most of us think of blush brushes as smaller versions of a powder brush. Like a powder brush, I find they waste too much product and you end up with apple cheeks. The brush I use is a larger, fluffier version of the foundation brush. Instead of rubbing the top of the brush into your blush, place the side of the brush on the blush palate and give it a little wiggle. The wedged bristles pick up just enough blush. With a light touch, brush over the cheekbone in a comma stroke from the corner of the eyes towards the nose.

For a more dramatic look, use the same technique layering color on. It is easier to add color than trying to take it off. In case, you do apply too much, no worries. Simply take your big, fluffy powder brush and make large circles over the blush. This will soften the color and eliminate any lines of demarcation.

Eye Shadow

crossdresser makeup brushesNext, the eyes. Find a small version of the foundation brush-flat, with curved top and wedged bristles. With this brush, apply a light-colored shadow from the lashes all the way up to the brow. Next find a small round brush that is cut in such a way that the top comes to a point. That point should fit into the eye crease. Apply a darker shade in the crease. (I’ll have a whole article on eye makeup at a later date.)

Must haves: powder pad, powder brush, blush brush, and two eye shadow brushes. Also needed in your makeup bag: cotton pads (100% cotton), Q-tips, sponge applicators (usually come with eye shadows), and an oil-free eye makeup remover. NEVER use Vaseline or baby oil on eyes.

Nice to haves: foundation brush, brow brush or comb, eyelash curler (if you have the patience), and a small angled brush for detail work around the eyes. I rarely, if ever use a lip brush, but they are useful for dabbing on a touch of gloss.

Hope this helps. Thanks for all the great questions.

Christina Evans, Makeup Artist, Phoenix, AZ
Email Makeup101byevans@yahoo.com with your beauty questions or to book an appointment


Christina, these are great tips! When starting out I made the mistake of applying blush with the a large fluffy brush. As light as I would apply the makeup I couldn’t figure out why I always looked like a clown. Now I use four types of brushes every day. The Flawless Application Face Brush for foundation and bronzer; the Soft Focus Shadow Brush for blush (much better control when applying blush! No more clown cheeks); the Concealer Brush for applying concealer; and the Double Ended Shaping Brush for applying eye shadow. I’m eagerly looking forward to your series on eye makeup. I’m reasonably adept at applying mineral eye shadow, but completely flummoxed as to use the sponge applicators that come with other eye shadows.

Thanks for sharing your tips with us. Dear readers, please send Christina your questions, or better yet – book an appointment with her if you’re near Phoenix!

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Help! My Face Is Melting!

Christina - Makeup Artists who works with crossdressers Some of the usual complains I hear about makeup are: “It changes color,” “It fades,” and “It slides off my face.” The problem isn’t your makeup. It’s your skincare. Skin that is dry will suck the moisture out of your foundation; thereby, changing the color or causing it to fade. Skin that is too oily can lift the foundation, making it feel like it’s dripping off your face.

Skincare should not be an expensive, complicated regimen. The objective of department store sales associates is to sale you as much stuff as possible. So that clutter of products on the counter can seem overwhelming.

You already get up every morning to wash your face and brush your teeth. What if a good skincare routine involved just two more steps, would you do it?

Step 1: Use a facial cleanser made for your skin type. Oily-skinned individuals prefer gel and foam cleansers for that squeaky clean feel, but they don’t dry out the skin like bar soap can. Dry-skinned individuals prefer creamy-type cleansers, which leave a just moisturized feel to the skin.

For those who aren’t sure where you fall, here’s a clue. Oily people know they’re oily. Dry people know they’re dry. If you’re not sure-a little dry on the cheeks, a little oily on the forehead and nose-you have combination skin. Most people do. I have yet to find that elusive “normal skin-type” person. For those with combination skin, the type of cleanser you choose is a matter of personal preference. Try different types until you find one you like. And don’t spend tons of money. Grocery store brands are fine. The only no-no is bar soap. It is too waxy and contains deodorants and other chemicals not made for the face.

For those still battling acne, find a cleanser with an anti-bacterial ingredient, like triclosan or salicylic acid. My favorite is Bath and Body Works Antibacterial Hand Soap. It’s sometimes on sale 4 for $10.00. Buy the gel. The creamy cleanser burns the eyes.

Step 2: Most people have no idea why they should use a toner, so they don’t. Toners wipe away any residue from your makeup and cleanser. They can soothe irritated skin. But most importantly, they help your skin absorb moisture. Skin is like a sponge. When a sponge is damp it absorbs spills easier. If your face is damp, it absorbs the moisturizer better.

It is best to stay away from astringents, even with oily skin. They have too much alcohol and are drying. People with oily or acne-prone skin do everything to dry it out. Problem with that is skin needs moisture. By drying it out, the oil glands work harder to compensate; thereby, causing the skin to become oilier.

My favorite toner is good, old fashioned Witch Hazel. It’s a natural astringent that won’t dry out your skin. Look for it in the first aid section of your neighborhood pharmacy, next to alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. And it’s cheap.

Step 3: Daytime and nighttime moisturizers do two different things, so yes, you need both. Daytime moisturizers act like a protective shield over the skin, keeping out debris, while locking in moisture. Daytime moisturizers absolutely, positively, without exception should have an SPF 15. If your moisturizer has less than 15 or none at all, apply the moisturizer then a sunscreen.

SPF 15 is a total block. Higher than that is just marketing. The difference in protection between SPF 15 and SPF 50 is only about 1-2%, but the additional chemicals can be double.

When you are at rest, the body repairs itself. Nighttime moisturizers increase the process by penetrating the skin to firm and smooth fine lines. In the past, moisturizers could only help stop further damage from happening. New technologies help active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin, actually repairing damaged skin. (If you are a sun goddess or smoker, no amount of moisturizer will repair the damage.)

You don’t have to spend lots of money. Oil of Olay and L’Oreal are just as good as anything you might spend $80-100 for in department stores. The key is consistency. Cleanse, tone, and moisturize, every morning and every night. Three basic steps to better skin.

So what is all that other stuff for: eye creams, exfoliants, masks, makeup removers, and more? I’ll touch on that next time. So stay tuned.

Christina Evans
Makeup101byevans@yahoo.com
http://www.linkedin.com/in/makeup101byevans


Vanessa here – Christina, thank you for your first article on a skin care routine. I concur completely, skin care is one of the most important aspect of looking good. Dermalogica is a mid-range skin care line that I enjoy using. I use Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel to cleanse and Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner for my toner. I normally don’t wear sunscreen, but rely on the sunscreen in my mineral makeup instead.

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Crossdressing Makeup Gets Professional

A few months back I was watching a video on the Internet describing how to take care of your skin.  The video was for men who wanted to look more feminine – I’m always pleased to see such advice published. However I was horrified when they advised that we use toner after putting on moisturizer. Even the most well intentioned advice can lead people astray – and for a man who has nowhere else to turn it could mean the difference between beauty, and … something less.

On Crossdresser Heaven I’ve tried to provide good advice to crossdressers that is based on what I’ve learnt from beauty experts, and my own experience with products. See articles such as How to Look Like a Woman – A Cross Dresser Skin Care Routine, and Crossdressing Makeup – The Basics.

However I don’t have quite the qualifications or experience of the lady you’re about to meet. I was delighted when Christina left a comment on Crossdresser Heaven. Christina is a makeup artist who works with men, and has kindly offered to share makeup tips and advice on Crossdresser Heaven.

Every few weeks you can find expert advice from a professional makeup artist on Crossdresser Heaven. Please welcome Christina Evans, and email her your burning questions about makeup!

Meet Your Makeup Artist – Christina Evans

Christina - A Makeup Professional who caters to crossdressers As the first girl in my sixth grade class to wear eye shadow, I should have known I was destined to be a makeup artist. It took a BS in Criminal Justice and four grueling years as a parole office to realize I wanted to make people look pretty, not throw them in jail. My training began with BeautiControl Cosmetics, a direct sales line out of Dallas, Texas. I also did promotional modeling for fragrance companies and when my agent found out I was a makeup artist, she sent me into the stores for various cosmetic lines. I made my own connections and started free-lancing for Elizabeth Arden, Hard Candy, Borghese, Francis Denny, Revlon, and many more. I traveled all over Houston and surrounding cities making women look beautiful. What I enjoyed most was teaching them why to use certain products and how.

Most sales associates know only what cosmetic companies tell them. That was not good enough for me. I graduated from the Institute of Cosmetology and received my state license as an esthetician. I then took a stage makeup class at the University of Houston and worked as the makeup artist on several community theatre productions. In 1999, I relocated to Los Angeles, where I received my California esthetician’s license, and received a 100 hour certificate from the International Dermal Institute.

Relocating to Phoenix in 2005, I decided to get away from product sales and focus on offering makeup lessons. Fate determined that all the responses I received would be from men. Several times I heard how other makeup artists never returned their calls, or weren’t comfortable working on crossdressers. Not one to let an opportunity pass, I decided to specialize in makeup lessons for men. It has been the best decision ever. To have clients who truly appreciate what I do, and are eager to learn, is the greatest gift. I can’t imagine going back to department stores, pedaling product to half interested customers.

I’d love to hear your stories or answer your makeup and skincare questions.

Christina Evans
Makeup101byevans@yahoo.com
http://Linkedin.com/in/makeup101byevans


P.S. Vanessa here – I’m looking to sell a pair of unused Gold Seal Breastforms (size 7) I bought from thebreastformstore. They’re a bit big for me – they have never been used, and come with a set of adhesive pads. They sell for $169+shipping from the store. I’d sell them for $125 (or the best offer) + shipping. Email me at vanessalaw@crossdresserheaven.com if you’re interested.

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