Crossdresser Heaven

Fashion, makeup and body movement tips for crossdressers who want to look and feel more feminine

Categories: Beauty and Makeup

Tools of the Trade

Categories: Beauty and Makeup, Crossdresser How To

Tags: crossdresser makeup, makeup application, makeup brushes, makeup tools

Published on: July 7, 2009

Every job has its tools. Things can get complicated in a kitchen without the right pots and pans. The same is true for applying makeup. Cosmetic companies love to give away brush sets as free gifts and stores are filled with brush sets in every shape and size, “Just in time for Christmas.” And like much of what we buy at the cosmetics counter, they end up in a drawer, never to come out of their pretty packaging, usually because we have no idea what to do with them. What I found to be the problem with most brush sets, it that, even if they are good quality, many of the brushes serve no useful purpose. Below, I’ve listed the four brushes and other tools you absolutely need and a few others that are nice to have.

Foundation

crossdressing makeup tips Makeup application begins with concealer, foundation, and powder. Unless you are using a mineral powder foundation, the concealer and foundation can be applied with your finger-not your hand. Use the middle or ring finger to gently smooth on concealer or foundation. The index finger pulls too much on the skin.

Sponge applicators are okay, but they tend to absorb more foundation than you need. Dampen the sponge first to eliminate that problem. Sponges also breed bacteria, so either use a new sponge with each application, or wash it with soap and water after each use.

Foundation brushes are nice for smoothing out foundation and concealer around the eyes. For the full face, they can be time consuming. Foundation brushes are flat with a curved top and wedged bristles.

Powder

For applying powder, big, fluffy brushes are fun, but they can waste product. I recommend a cosmetic foam pad. Press pad lightly into powder, tap off excess, and then press powder onto face. I usually start under the eyes to keep concealer from creasing, and then work my way around the face until powder disappears. Use that big, fluffy brush to dust away any excess. The pads are large enough to use a different half and/or side with each application. Once both sides have been used, wash with soap and water. They last for ages, but it doesn’t hurt to toss them out after six months.

Blush

Most of us think of blush brushes as smaller versions of a powder brush. Like a powder brush, I find they waste too much product and you end up with apple cheeks. The brush I use is a larger, fluffier version of the foundation brush. Instead of rubbing the top of the brush into your blush, place the side of the brush on the blush palate and give it a little wiggle. The wedged bristles pick up just enough blush. With a light touch, brush over the cheekbone in a comma stroke from the corner of the eyes towards the nose.

For a more dramatic look, use the same technique layering color on. It is easier to add color than trying to take it off. In case, you do apply too much, no worries. Simply take your big, fluffy powder brush and make large circles over the blush. This will soften the color and eliminate any lines of demarcation.

Eye Shadow

crossdresser makeup brushes Next, the eyes. Find a small version of the foundation brush-flat, with curved top and wedged bristles. With this brush, apply a light-colored shadow from the lashes all the way up to the brow. Next find a small round brush that is cut in such a way that the top comes to a point. That point should fit into the eye crease. Apply a darker shade in the crease. (I’ll have a whole article on eye makeup at a later date.)

Must haves: powder pad, powder brush, blush brush, and two eye shadow brushes. Also needed in your makeup bag: cotton pads (100% cotton), Q-tips, sponge applicators (usually come with eye shadows), and an oil-free eye makeup remover. NEVER use Vaseline or baby oil on eyes.

Nice to haves: foundation brush, brow brush or comb, eyelash curler (if you have the patience), and a small angled brush for detail work around the eyes. I rarely, if ever use a lip brush, but they are useful for dabbing on a touch of gloss.

Hope this helps. Thanks for all the great questions.

Christina Evans, Makeup Artist, Phoenix, AZ
Email Makeup101byevans@yahoo.com with your beauty questions or to book an appointment

—
Christina, these are great tips! When starting out I made the mistake of applying blush with the a large fluffy brush. As light as I would apply the makeup I couldn’t figure out why I always looked like a clown. Now I use four types of brushes every day. The Flawless Application Face Brush for foundation and bronzer; the Soft Focus Shadow Brush for blush (much better control when applying blush! No more clown cheeks); the Concealer Brush for applying concealer; and the Double Ended Shaping Brush for applying eye shadow. I’m eagerly looking forward to your series on eye makeup. I’m reasonably adept at applying mineral eye shadow, but completely flummoxed as to use the sponge applicators that come with other eye shadows.

Thanks for sharing your tips with us. Dear readers, please send Christina your questions, or better yet – book an appointment with her if you’re near Phoenix!

Help! My Face Is Melting!

by Christina Evans

Categories: Beauty and Makeup, Crossdresser How To

Tags: crossdresser skin care, crossdressing skin care routine

Comments: No Comments

Published on: June 16, 2009

Christina - Makeup Artists who works with crossdressers Some of the usual complains I hear about makeup are: “It changes color,” “It fades,” and “It slides off my face.” The problem isn’t your makeup. It’s your skincare. Skin that is dry will suck the moisture out of your foundation; thereby, changing the color or causing it to fade. Skin that is too oily can lift the foundation, making it feel like it’s dripping off your face.

Skincare should not be an expensive, complicated regimen. The objective of department store sales associates is to sale you as much stuff as possible. So that clutter of products on the counter can seem overwhelming.

You already get up every morning to wash your face and brush your teeth. What if a good skincare routine involved just two more steps, would you do it?

Step 1: Use a facial cleanser made for your skin type. Oily-skinned individuals prefer gel and foam cleansers for that squeaky clean feel, but they don’t dry out the skin like bar soap can. Dry-skinned individuals prefer creamy-type cleansers, which leave a just moisturized feel to the skin.

For those who aren’t sure where you fall, here’s a clue. Oily people know they’re oily. Dry people know they’re dry. If you’re not sure-a little dry on the cheeks, a little oily on the forehead and nose-you have combination skin. Most people do. I have yet to find that elusive “normal skin-type” person. For those with combination skin, the type of cleanser you choose is a matter of personal preference. Try different types until you find one you like. And don’t spend tons of money. Grocery store brands are fine. The only no-no is bar soap. It is too waxy and contains deodorants and other chemicals not made for the face.

For those still battling acne, find a cleanser with an anti-bacterial ingredient, like triclosan or salicylic acid. My favorite is Bath and Body Works Antibacterial Hand Soap. It’s sometimes on sale 4 for $10.00. Buy the gel. The creamy cleanser burns the eyes.

Step 2: Most people have no idea why they should use a toner, so they don’t. Toners wipe away any residue from your makeup and cleanser. They can soothe irritated skin. But most importantly, they help your skin absorb moisture. Skin is like a sponge. When a sponge is damp it absorbs spills easier. If your face is damp, it absorbs the moisturizer better.

It is best to stay away from astringents, even with oily skin. They have too much alcohol and are drying. People with oily or acne-prone skin do everything to dry it out. Problem with that is skin needs moisture. By drying it out, the oil glands work harder to compensate; thereby, causing the skin to become oilier.

My favorite toner is good, old fashioned Witch Hazel. It’s a natural astringent that won’t dry out your skin. Look for it in the first aid section of your neighborhood pharmacy, next to alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. And it’s cheap.

Step 3: Daytime and nighttime moisturizers do two different things, so yes, you need both. Daytime moisturizers act like a protective shield over the skin, keeping out debris, while locking in moisture. Daytime moisturizers absolutely, positively, without exception should have an SPF 15. If your moisturizer has less than 15 or none at all, apply the moisturizer then a sunscreen.

SPF 15 is a total block. Higher than that is just marketing. The difference in protection between SPF 15 and SPF 50 is only about 1-2%, but the additional chemicals can be double.

When you are at rest, the body repairs itself. Nighttime moisturizers increase the process by penetrating the skin to firm and smooth fine lines. In the past, moisturizers could only help stop further damage from happening. New technologies help active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin, actually repairing damaged skin. (If you are a sun goddess or smoker, no amount of moisturizer will repair the damage.)

You don’t have to spend lots of money. Oil of Olay and L’Oreal are just as good as anything you might spend $80-100 for in department stores. The key is consistency. Cleanse, tone, and moisturize, every morning and every night. Three basic steps to better skin.

So what is all that other stuff for: eye creams, exfoliants, masks, makeup removers, and more? I’ll touch on that next time. So stay tuned.

Christina Evans
Makeup101byevans@yahoo.com
http://www.linkedin.com/in/makeup101byevans

—
Vanessa here – Christina, thank you for your first article on a skin care routine. I concur completely, skin care is one of the most important aspect of looking good. Dermalogica is a mid-range skin care line that I enjoy using. I use Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel to cleanse and Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner for my toner. I normally don’t wear sunscreen, but rely on the sunscreen in my mineral makeup instead.

Crossdressing Makeup Gets Professional

by Vanessa Law

Categories: Beauty and Makeup, Crossdresser How To

Tags: crossdresser makeup tips, crossdressing makeup, crossdressing makeup howto, learn crossdressing makeup

Comments: No Comments

Published on: June 15, 2009

A few months back I was watching a video on the Internet describing how to take care of your skin. The video was for men who wanted to look more feminine – I’m always pleased to see such advice published. However I was horrified when they advised that we use toner after putting on moisturizer. Even the most well intentioned advice can lead people astray – and for a man who has nowhere else to turn it could mean the difference between beauty, and … something less.

On Crossdresser Heaven I’ve tried to provide good advice to crossdressers that is based on what I’ve learnt from beauty experts, and my own experience with products. See articles such as How to Look Like a Woman – A Cross Dresser Skin Care Routine, and Crossdressing Makeup – The Basics.

However I don’t have quite the qualifications or experience of the lady you’re about to meet. I was delighted when Christina left a comment on Crossdresser Heaven. Christina is a makeup artist who works with men, and has kindly offered to share makeup tips and advice on Crossdresser Heaven.

Every few weeks you can find expert advice from a professional makeup artist on Crossdresser Heaven. Please welcome Christina Evans, and email her your burning questions about makeup!

Meet Your Makeup Artist – Christina Evans

Christina - A Makeup Professional who caters to crossdressers As the first girl in my sixth grade class to wear eye shadow, I should have known I was destined to be a makeup artist. It took a BS in Criminal Justice and four grueling years as a parole office to realize I wanted to make people look pretty, not throw them in jail. My training began with BeautiControl Cosmetics, a direct sales line out of Dallas, Texas. I also did promotional modeling for fragrance companies and when my agent found out I was a makeup artist, she sent me into the stores for various cosmetic lines. I made my own connections and started free-lancing for Elizabeth Arden, Hard Candy, Borghese, Francis Denny, Revlon, and many more. I traveled all over Houston and surrounding cities making women look beautiful. What I enjoyed most was teaching them why to use certain products and how.

Most sales associates know only what cosmetic companies tell them. That was not good enough for me. I graduated from the Institute of Cosmetology and received my state license as an esthetician. I then took a stage makeup class at the University of Houston and worked as the makeup artist on several community theatre productions. In 1999, I relocated to Los Angeles, where I received my California esthetician’s license, and received a 100 hour certificate from the International Dermal Institute.

Relocating to Phoenix in 2005, I decided to get away from product sales and focus on offering makeup lessons. Fate determined that all the responses I received would be from men. Several times I heard how other makeup artists never returned their calls, or weren’t comfortable working on crossdressers. Not one to let an opportunity pass, I decided to specialize in makeup lessons for men. It has been the best decision ever. To have clients who truly appreciate what I do, and are eager to learn, is the greatest gift. I can’t imagine going back to department stores, pedaling product to half interested customers.

I’d love to hear your stories or answer your makeup and skincare questions.

Christina Evans
Makeup101byevans@yahoo.com
http://Linkedin.com/in/makeup101byevans

—
P.S. Vanessa here – I’m looking to sell a pair of unused Gold Seal Breastforms (size 7) I bought from thebreastformstore. They’re a bit big for me – they have never been used, and come with a set of adhesive pads. They sell for $169+shipping from the store. I’d sell them for $125 (or the best offer) + shipping. Email me at vanessalaw@crossdresserheaven.com if you’re interested.

How To Look Like A Woman – A Cross Dresser Skin Care Routine

by Vanessa Law

Categories: Beauty and Makeup, Crossdresser How To

Tags: cross dresser skin care routine, crossdress beauty, crossdresser beauty, Crossdresser How To, crossdressing skin care routine, learn how to cross dress

Comments: 3 Comments

Published on: April 7, 2009

Cross-dresser-skin-care-routine If our eyes are a window to the soul then our face is the home of our humanity. Your face is the first thing that people see. From an early age we learn the subtle cues that facial expressions share and look to the face as the true judge of sincerity. Over any other part of your body your face contains the richest source of information on who you are and how you feel.

The face is also the first place people look to confirm any suspicions they may have about your gender. Unfortunately many crossdressers fail this test because they lack a good skin care routine.

As a man you can easily get away with poor care for your face. It’s not by chance that rugged and hansom often find themselves in the same sentence. For right or wrong, a weather and time worn face denotes strength and wisdom in a man, but neglect in a woman.

My Cross Dresser Skin Care Routine

To be considered beautiful by most of society a woman’s face must resist the ravages of time and remain soft and supple. In our endeavor to emulate the feminine form we too must strive to provide loving care to our face – the ultimate cross dressing fashion statement.

I’m going to share with you my cross dresser skin care routine. I use products tailored for my skin type – I have a slightly oily skin – so keep in mind that you may need to use a different formulation depending on your skin type. If you’re in doubt about your skin type I recommend you indulge yourself and go for a facial at your local beauty salon. They’ll be able to tell you all about your skin and facials are a heavenly way to spend time.

To enhance and maintain your natural beauty there are five things you need to do as part of your cross dresser skin care routine.

Clean Your Face

Clean your face twice a day with a high quality cleanser. This will remove any excess dirt and oil and should make your skin feel fresh and a little tight. If your skin feels dry after washing your face check your cleanser, you may be removing too much oil. I prefer to use Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel. I started using it a few years ago and haven’t found anything that makes me look or feel better. If you decide not to use Dermalogica, whatever you do stay away from soap! Most soap is not good for your face.

Exfoliate

Our skin goes through a natural cycle of dying and being replaced by new skin cells. Unless you do something about it dead skin cells will hang around, giving you a dull and lackluster appearance. The best way to deal with this is to exfoliate once or twice a week after cleansing. This removes the dead layer of skin and leaves your face smoother and softer. Don’t exfoliate more than twice a week. I find that the small granules of Dermalogica Skin Prep Scrub give invigorate my skin without scratching it.

Apply Toner

A toner helps freshen, soothe and condition your skin, helping it to better absorb moisture that you’re going to apply next. I use Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner. It’s spray is a convenient way to apply toner.

Moisturize

Men’s skin is naturally coarser than a woman’s. Sun exposure, smoking and drinking can quickly cause your skin to look old and tired. Moisturizer is essential to looking younger and keeping deep wrinkles at bay. In fact, if you only ever do two things make sure to clean your face and moisturize. I use Dermalogica Active Moist (Yes, I really like their products, no I don’t work for them ).

Apply Sunscreen

In Seattle we only see the sun three months of the year, yet even then UV rays can penetrate the clouds, prematurely aging your skin. I highly recommend wearing sunscreen if you’re going out, even when it’s overcast. Personally I find that most sunscreens clog my pores and cause me to break out, so I use a mineral makeup foundation which has built in SPF 15. If I’m going hiking or swimming and need something a bit more robust I’ll use Dermalogica Oil Free Matt Block.

You’re Done With Your Cross Dresser Skin Care Routine – At Least for today

As men we struggle against our genetics as well as a lifetime of bad habits. Even if you’ve gone many years without taking care of your skin it is possible to reverse some of the damage. If you’re still early in your journey through life you have the best opportunity – right now – to set yourself up for a lifetime of beautiful, soft skin. Done regularly these five simple steps will allow your face to represent the femininity inside you.

Look beautiful! Next week I’ll share with you the one thing you can do to magnify your femininity ten fold. If you do this and follow the five steps above your face will be your best asset in passing. Subscribe to Crossdresser Heaven so you don’t miss on this invaluable information.

How To Make Your Nails Look Fabulous!

by Vanessa Law

Categories: Beauty and Makeup

Tags: cross dresser manicure, crossdresser nails, feminine hands, feminine nails, nail polish

Comments: 3 Comments

Published on: March 24, 2009

One of the fastest way to tell if someone is just pretending at womanhood is to look at their hands. A woman’s hands are small, delicate, and well kept. In stark contrast to a man’s, which are usually large, rough and dirty. Even crossdressers often do no more than hastily slap on a coat of nail polish before walking out the door.

There’s not much we can do about the size and shape of our hands, but there is still a lot else we can do to enhance our femininity. There are two mistakes crossdressers often make with their hands and nails.

Crossdresser Hand Care

Beautifully manicured nails

Firstly, your average transgendered girl doesn’t take care of her hands. If your hands are rough and calloused I’m talking to you. With a few changes you can dramatically improve the appearance of your hands. Start by moisturizing your hands regularly using a moisturizer such as Dove Nourishing Moisture Beauty Hand Cream. I moisturize my hands a few times a day when they start to feel dry. If you’re not able to keep a moisturizer with you during the day, moisturize once when you wake up (after showering), and once before you go to bed.

If your hands still feel rough you can use an exfoliating scrub a few times a week, such as this One Minute Manicure Spa Treatment. This will help remove any dead skin that has built up, and start to work on smoothing your calluses.

Now that you’re on the road to smooth and beautiful hands don’t waste all your effort in the yard this weekend. We all have chores that need to be done, and some of them involve heavy lifting and rough outdoor work. Don’t forget to wear gloves to preserve your feminine appearance!

Nail Polish and Cross Dressers

Nail polish has a seductive feminine allure for cross dressers. Many times this allure is satisfied by a quick dash of nail polish. It may feel good, but unless you’re well practiced your nails will look messy and distinctly unfeminine. Not all of us can create the salon-manicured look, but with practice and by following a few simple steps your nails can accentuate your female appearance.

Clean your nails: Water and soap work well
File your nails: Use a nail file to gently round your nails. This will take some practice to do with your off hand.
Apply basecoat: A basecoat (such as OPI Natural Nail Base Coat) will help nourish and strengthen your nails, and at the same time provide a smooth surface for the nail color to bond to.
Apply your favorite color nail polish: It’s best to apply two thin coats, rather than a single thick coat. Start from the center of your nail and work outwards.
Apply topcoat: A top coat will add shine to your nails, and prevent them from chipping. Stay away from 2-in-1 base coat and top coats, rather use a dedicated top coat such as OPI Rapidry Topcoat. The base coat and top coat are designed to do separate things, and neither will be done well with a mixed formula.
Let your nails dry: Don’t rush it. Your nails will need at least 15 minutes before they’re dry enough for tasks like driving. Wait longer if you plan to wash dishes or change clothes otherwise you’ll smudge your nail polish.