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For context I am in the UK and using British terminology.
As I understand it, cup sizes on bras are proportional to band size? So a C cup on a 30" band will be smaller than a C cup on a 40" band.
I have a barrel chest, i.e deep but not overly wide and a proper band measurement for me is 42", now I can't find good bras at 42" with less than a C cup but a C cup at that size is quite wide and sides of the cups end up under my armpits and the fit just seems a bit wrong. May be if I shopped around a lot I might find a brand that has smaller or narrower cups but I was thinking I might be better off buying a smaller bra and using a bra extender? That way I get smaller cups and can still have the right band size.
Has anyone tried this? Does it seem like a reasonable idea?
Many have posted doing exactly that. It works for some but not all. It sounds like a good solution for you since the biggest disadvantage to using a bra extended is that they tend to leave the cups fitting narrower on the chest and sunce men tend to have wider set nipples it is a problem. For you, since the cups end up too far under your arms and extender and narrower cups sounds like the solution you need.
If you have not done it, a bra fitting at a more specialized bra shop (not a VS or Soma which tend to cater to smaller band sizes) might be the ticket. Others have written here about such shops and when rhe fitter sees such issues as yours they tend to try extenders.
Yes, I went to a Canadian brand lingerie store and asked for some help finding a small cup bra for my 38" band size. I had ordered bras on-line quite a few times and couldn't find the right mix. 38s here don't generally come with a cup smaller than a B. The sales clerk set me up with a 36A (the last band size with an A cup) and with an extender. It works fine, and it is also pretty invisible under many of my shirts.
However, spacing of the cups can be, um, off. Some bras set the cups pretty close together or too high, even before adding an extender, and that can look odd on a more mature frame. Perky is one thing, odd is another.
Pear shaped breast forms can be turned towards your armpits, to add a bit of sag and spread to your shape.
There is a great calculator out there that takes more measurements than just under bust and bust measurements. I takes into account looser and tighter measurements, measurements bent over and lying on your back and calculates the best bra size for you. I have tried different cup sizes, band sizes, underwire, wireless and through trial and error determined that 42C fits me best. I found the calculator and did all the measurements and viola 42C. I could have saved myself some time if I’d had that calculator earlier. You can switch from UK to US, inches to CM. I know that links are frowned upon in our replies, so I’ll just reference the name of the website. abrathatfits dot org. They have a PHP driven calculator and you can just enter your measurements and preferences and see what it suggests.